Remote controlled power wheels (part 1, electronics)
Idea: take a two-seater powerwheels for the kids, make steering and power remote controlled. Perfect for kids who are barely old enough to walk, let alone drive.
Many people have done this before. Well documented resources:
Hack-a-day article on modified powerwheels
A nice instructables write-up
A nice write-up on someone’s blog
The Modified Power Wheels Forum
Useful youtube videos for the actual process:
Someone gives a nice walk-through
Another nice walk-through
Components
Power wheels. Got one for cheap on craigslist, $50.
Steering. It requires a linear actuator and a linear actuator controller (LAC). I got both from Actuonix, because they offer a deal on the LAC if you buy the linear actuator too (about $130 total).
Actuonix LAC board
Actuonix P-type linear actuator (100mm stroke, 64:1 gear ratio, 12V)
Alternatively, others’ recommend the Firgelli linear actuator (35lb, 4″), which seems a little stronger and more robust (but also more expensive). Can be used with the Actuonix LAC.
Drive train and controller. Use the existing motors, but add an electronic speed controller (ESC), and hook that up that up to a remote control receiver. Total cost about $100
GoolRC 2.4G 3CH AFHS Radio Remote Control Transmitter with Receiver
Hobbywing dual motor ESC Quicrun 860
Servo extension cables
Battery and connectors. I used an old 12V motorcycle battery, but any LiPo or lead acid 12V battery should work. Also got a simple LED power switch, an in-line fuse holder, some crimp-style blade connectors, and some ring-style battery connectors (total cost about $20).
Assembly
Part one: Plan and test the electronics
Part two: take power wheels apart. Easy to do, a few screws and everything falls apart. The steering was the hardest part:
The steering controller is just a long, metal rod that hooks to a connector on the wheels. Pull off the securing clips at the top and bottom (takes some force), and the rod comes out.
Hooking up the actuator was a little tougher. I ended up bolting the actuator to the plastic body, and then drilling a hole in the control rod, and connected the two piece with a small metal bolt (in this picture, I used a cheap bolt, which I eventually replaced).
Hooking up the LAC required some thought. Key points:
- The Actuonix linear actuator connects via the pre-made cable. They marked yellow on the board so you know which side of the connector goes into the board.
- 12V power comes directly from the battery. Hook to the + and – terminals.
- Data comes from the RC unit. MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE POWER LINE FROM THE RC UNIT. The 3-prong connector has 3 lines: signal, ground, and power. You can fry your LAC if it gets power from two sources, and the RC unit doesn’t supply enough power to run the actuator.
- The actuator RC connection goes to port 1 on the RC controller, and the ESC RC connection goes to port 2 on the RC controller. (Remember: “One to turn, two to burn.”)
Next step: flip over and start hooking up the ESC. I just pulled out most of the existing wiring, the only thing I saved were the wires going to the motors.
The ESC hookup is simple. First, connect the RC module to the ESC (simple 3-prong connector, included in package). Connect the 12V battery to the red and black connectors, and a yellow and a blue wire go to each of the motors. Remember that one of the motors needs reversed polarity, otherwise your wheels will spin in opposite directions and go nowhere.
Next step: flip over and start hooking up the ESC. I just pulled out most of the existing wiring, the only thing I saved were the wires going to the motors.
The ESC hookup is simple. First, connect the RC module to the ESC (simple 3-prong connector, included in package). Connect the 12V battery to the red and black connectors, and a yellow and a blue wire go to each of the motors. Remember that one of the motors needs reversed polarity, otherwise your wheels will spin in opposite directions and go nowhere.
The LAC also has to be connected to the radio control module as well. Use the 3-prong extension cables come in, because i had the control module in the back and the LAC in the front.
Last step is to make everything pretty. I changed all the temporary soldered connectors to the crimped ring or blade connectors, used hot glue to secure everything down, and re-assembled.
